When you’ve got a blemished or overly oily skin, using the best cleanser is crucial. While it’s true that there are many brilliant clearing serums, targeted spot treatments and calming creams out there take some extra attention when you decide for your cleansing ritual and your products.
First of all: their success is entirely dependent on how well prepped your skin is before application.
If you’ve not removed your make-up thoroughly or used an alcohol-laced cleanser that’s left your skin barrier screaming, anything you apply on top won’t work as well as it could.
Here’s where things really get confusing: a huge amount of so-called face washes for blemished skin are actually far too strong for an easily upset complexion, and may well be making your breakouts worse. While these harsh washes impart a super-clean feeling after use, they’re actually just stripping of your skin and leaving your barrier and microbiome destroyed, which ultimately triggers more oil production.
We always advise ditching the gels and foaming cleansers immediately. These products tend to be too harsh on the skin and can remove or impair the acid mantle, which is skin’s vital protective barrier. Once this important acid mantle, a part of our skin’s microbiome, is removed, the skin opens up for trans epidermal water loss and exposure to dirt and pollutants. With the skin dehydrated, the sebaceous glands are forced to produce more oil, which can then increase the risk of new spots. It also forces the skin into panic mode, making it difficult for blemished skin to heal properly.
Moreover, we always advise steering clear of cleansers that contain a large amount of alpha-hydroxy-acid (=AHA’s are often used in chemical peelings and to recognize on the ingredient list as: Alpha hydroxy acids, Citric acid, Fruit acids, Gluconolactone, Glycolic acid, Lactic acid, Malic acid, Tartaric acid).
You don’t need acids or any other hardcore actives in your cleanser, because the only real purpose of your cleanser is to clean your skin. If it can do that, without leaving your skin barrier annihilated, its work is done. Please note that cosmetic professionals name cleansers “rinse-off” products.
Save expensive actives and spot-fighting ingredients for the products that spend longer on your skin – think serums, gels and creams.
So, if you’ve been reaching for a ‘blemished skin cleanser’ religiously morning and night, but aren’t seeing much of an improvement, it might be time to change your cleansing routine. It may sound surprising, but gentle cream cleansers are actually the best way to make oily, acneic skin balanced and happy.
This is because they remove excess dirt and grime without stripping our acid mantle. There is this old-school notion that we have to strip our skin of its oils in order to clear up blemished skin when it couldn't be further from the truth, and in fact that only increases our chances of future breakouts.
Finally, it’s also important to consider the way that you cleanse: creamy cleansers must be removed with a warm flannel or muslin cloth. Splash rinsing is not thorough enough and will leave both dirt and cleanser residue on the skin which can lead to further skin inflammations and redness.
So probably you will be looking at that acid-packed gel cleanser in your bathroom with new-found suspicion and maybe it’s time to try a gentle cream cleanser at your local store. Ask your local store staff for advice. There are a number of correct cleansers.
Please note: We’re already working on an exciting good gentle cleanser which we will launch in 2020. An important requirement of Anna is Clear is that all formulations do not damage the skin or our beautiful nature. You must be able to use our products under a waterfall without any hesitation.......
Anna is Clear
Happy skin, happy life!